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Wednesday 29 February 2012

What’s the Difference between an Anti-Perspirant and a Deodorant?

Not as glamorous as the usual products I review, but I’d like to save you money as there really is no need to spend more than £1.  A deodorant masks odour and prevents odour bacteria forming and an Anti-Perspirant clogs the sweat pores.

Deodorant Ingredients

Triclosan - effective against gram positive and gram negative bacteria
Alcohol – drying effect and also kills of bacteria
Perfume or Essential oils to mask odour
The rest of the ingredients will differ depening on whether the deodorant is  a aerosol, gel, stick, liquid

AP Ingredients

Aluminium chlorohydrate or aluminium-zirconium compounds  – temporarily clogs the sweat glands (removed when washing)
Soothing ingredients ie Allantonin, aloe vera
The rest of the ingredients will differ depening on whether the AP is a aerosol, gel, stick, liquid

Parabens

Very few deodorants or AP’s contain parabens because the formulations do not require as much preservation as other cosmetic products, in fact Triclosan is a good preservative.  I'm personally not against parabens a lot of the information out there is misleading, and it has recently been declared safe after an intensive review.  http://www.ctfa.org/newsroom/20120307

Effectiveness & Testing
I personally find AP more effective than deodorant and crystal rocks, but it’s a matter of personal taste.  A small percentage of people are allergic to aluminium compounds and experience skin irritancy.  I used to sell the aluminium and zirconium compounds to the personal care industry and I can share that there around 10 producers of these ingredients worldwide, they all conduct sweat tests on their ingredients to give the 24 or 48 hour protection.  The brand owners use these tests and the guideline formulations, add their own fragrance/essential oils/skin calming ingredients and the aluminium-zirconium compounds at the manufacturers recommended level.

So any AP on the market that states 24 hour protection is going to be as effective as the next one claiming 24 hour protection.  It’s all a matter of which fragrance, medium you prefer, a supermarket own brand for 60p may be identical to a luxury brand costing £5.00

Amplex Anti-Perspirant
I have used this one for the past decade, it’s non-staining, I like the clear roll on medium, not overly fragranced and costs 89p from Savers, and I have no hesitation recommending it.

Purchasing AP’s on Holiday
If you run out of your AP on holiday and the only brand you recognise in the shop seems 5 x more expensive than the rest.  Simply look at the label if it contains aluminium or zirconium compounds and says 24 Hr or 48 Hr, that you can have complete confidence in buying the cheaper one.

Tuesday 21 February 2012

Fab Pore Facial Peel by Soap & Glory

I have fallen in love with Soap & Glory’s packaging and this Facial Peel was making interesting claims ie Pore Shrinking so I decided to give it a try. 

Key Ingredients


Kaolin – this appears quite high on the ingredient list and is a typical ingredient for masks, so I would consider this to be a mask rather than a facial peel  
Salicylic acid – is encapsulated in the blue beads, and is a typical ingredient for oily skins as it “eats” dead skin cells
Mushroom extract (fomes offincals) – for pore size reduction
Laminaria saccharina – reduces sebum flow and helps stop acne bacteria

Kaolin/mud masks, peel off mask, peel, exfoliator?

Mud masks and peel off’s work on the same principal ie occlusive layer that sits on the skin surface and stops it “breathing” and pushes out debris clogging pores, which is then removed along with the mask, I think its very effective for removing blackheads and excess oils.  Peels tend to be made from fruit acids  which have a enzymatic effect on breaking down the cellular bonds and encouraging the skin to release dead cells.  Exfoliators also work by gently massaging something abrasive into the problem areas to remove debris from blocked pores and release dead skin cells.  All have their places and its down to personal preference, I personally find mud or clay masks too drying and I like that the manufacturer has combined glycerine with kaolin as this makes it less drying.  I think honey would be the ideal ingredient in a mask as it would moisturise the skin at the same time, and I think it would be better to regulate sebum product rather than drying out the skin, as the skin will naturally want to produce more oil.

Is it possible to reduce pore size?

This simple answer is No, its genetic like the size of your ears. However, it’s possible to “reduce the appearance” of pores.  Look out for this phrase as it’s’ often used with cosmetic products, especially ones claiming wrinkle reduction, appearance is subjective and therefore open to interpretation!  People with oily skin tend to have larger pores while people with dry skin generally have smaller pores. When oils collect on the skin, they can clog pores and cause pores to appear larger so by preventing dirt from building up in the pores, it would be possible to reduce pore size that is until they get clogged again!

Rating

Value for money – costs £8.00 from Boots, and good value with the current 3 for 2 offers, but expensive compared to other clay masks
Effectiveness – I’m not sure the benefits of salicylic acid, mushroom and laminara saccharina extract are really experienced in the short contact time, and whether they make it through the kaolin/glycerin barrier
Pampering factor – although it was effective in scaring my partner, I don’t really like the dry feel of having too much oil stripped from my skin
Recommended – I wouldn’t buy it again
USP – Full marks for the humour retro packaging

Thursday 16 February 2012

Glow Job Daily Radiance Moisture Lotion by Soap & Glory

This is a daily moisturiser offering radiance in a novel way by encapsulated iron oxides (micro bronzer beads).

Key Ingredients


Encapsulated iron oxides for bronzing effect – typical mixture for foundations
Mica & Silica – to give mattifying effect and nice skin feel
Orange Peel Oil – natural fragrance (there are synthetic aromas and fragrances added too)
Biosaccharide Gum – the best ingredient in it

Tinted Moisturiser or Foundation


This is essentially a tinted moisturiser albeit in a novel way.  Most tinted moisturisers come in one shade only and give a nice glow to the skin; they don’t tend to give much coverage as their main function is as a moisturiser.  Modern foundations are so light and sheer with added actives for moisturising, anti-ageing and SPF which are long wearing and very lightweight so if I felt I needed coverage/camouflage, I would opt for a foundation.

How it Works

On application the beads containing the iron oxides are broken and you mix them in with the rest of the moisturiser on application.  The effect is nice and glowing but I found the coverage quite poor.  The mica and silica give a nice smooth skin feel.  It also has a nice after feel from the Biosaccharide gum which is one of my absolute favourite ingredients, as this acts as a shield on the skin and delivers long term moisturise. I like the fact the strongest fragrance is from a natural source ie orange peel oil, I know a lot of you are swayed by a nice fragrance in a skin cream but trust me, synthetic fragrances are made up of at least 60 compounds, some of which may be irritating to the skin, so avoid highly fragranced cosmetics. 

A Bit Odd

The manufacturers No 12 top tip is to wear sunscreen, yet this ingredient does not contain any!  I would consider this No 1 top tip.

Rating

Value for money – won’t break the bank at £9.00 available from Boots, and good value with the current 3 for 2 offers, but I think there are comparable tinted moisturisers out there and definitely better foundations in the same price bracket
Effectiveness – The claim is radiance and it does deliver a lovely glow
Pampering factor – has a novelty effect which I like
Recommended – especially for the 3 for 2 deals, also they make wonderful gifts
USP – Full marks for the humours retro packaging